I walked 3,500 steps down to Nongriat's root bridges. Getting back up is where it broke.

What the trek actually is

You start at Tyrna village, about 20 km from Sohra. From Tyrna you descend 3,500 stone steps into a river valley, cross two suspension bridges over gushing river water, and reach Nongriat village where the double-decker root bridge stands. From there you can also visit the Rainbow Falls (another 90 minutes each way). Then you climb 3,500 steps back up to Tyrna.

The descent takes 90 minutes if you're fit, 2.5 hours if you're not. The ascent takes 2.5 hours if you're fit, 4 hours if you're not. I am moderately fit and it took me 3 hours up.

The wet moss problem nobody warns you about

In monsoon (June to September) the steps are covered in a thin layer of moss that absorbs rainwater. It looks green and picturesque. Under a normal hiking shoe it acts like ice. I was descending step 2,100 (roughly, I stopped counting), took my eyes off my feet to look at a butterfly, and my right foot slid 30 cm sideways. I caught the rail but my ankle wrenched. Not broken, just badly sprained.

I made it to Nongriat by hobbling. Serene Homestay in Nongriat took me in for an unplanned second night at ₹800 including three simple meals. I did nothing for 30 hours except drink turmeric water. The ankle held for the climb back.

What you actually need

• Grippy trekking sandals or trail shoes with a Vibram-style sole. Cheap sneakers will not grip wet moss.
• Two trekking poles. NOT one. Two. You want a pole for each side because the steps are uneven and steep.
• A dry-bag for your phone and wallet. It will rain at least once during the day. Guaranteed.
• At least 2 litres of water per person for the round trip. Nongriat has a small shop but it's not always open.
• ₹1,000 to ₹1,500 cash. Serene Homestay in Nongriat takes cash only for the ₹800 room + meals. Guide Byron (WhatsApp via any Sohra homestay) charges ₹2,000 for the day.

Overnight in Nongriat, not a day trip

Do not attempt this as a day trip from Sohra. Day-trippers reach Nongriat at 1pm, spend 30 minutes at the bridge, panic about the climb back before dark, and rush the return. They miss Rainbow Falls entirely, which is the actual highlight beyond the root bridge.

Overnight in Nongriat at Serene or Byron's Homestay (both ₹700 to ₹1,000). Descend on day one afternoon, sleep in the village, do Rainbow Falls at dawn on day two, climb back to Tyrna by noon. Two nights is even better because it also lets your legs recover.

What I'd redo

1. Skip the monsoon window despite what the Instagram photos promise. October to November is the sweet spot: waterfalls still full, moss dry enough to grip, no daily rain.
2. Trekking poles from the start, not from step 500. Rent them in Sohra for ₹150 the pair.
3. Two nights in Nongriat, not one. Day two for Rainbow Falls, day three for the climb.
4. Never take your eyes off your feet on wet stone. Photograph from a stopped position.
5. Book Serene Homestay ahead through the Meghalaya Homestay WhatsApp network. Walk-ins get turned away in October to November peak.